This time, we’re going to talk about Clear Coat Paint For Cabinets. There is a lot of information about clear coat after painting cabinets on the internet, of course. Social media are getting better and better quickly, which makes it easier for us to learn new things.

Clear Coat For Kitchen Cabinets and Best Clear Coat For White Kitchen Cabinets are also linked to information about Here’s How to Paint your Kitchen Cabinets. As for other things that need to be looked up, they are about Best Top Coat For White Cabinets and have something to do with Best Clear Coat For Kitchen Cabinets. Clear Coat Paint For Cabinets - Best Clear Coat For Stained Cabinets

97 Interesting Facts Clear Coat Paint For Cabinets | Best Clear Coat For White Kitchen Cabinets

  • Yes, you can paint over already painted cabinets however it may require some additional work. If your cabinets are chipping and the paint is peeling, you will have to scrape the chipping paint off the cabinets. Then you have to sand them smooth. You may need to add wood filler of Bondo to make them smooth again. - Source: Internet
  • The best roller to use when painting kitchen cabinets is a mini foam roller. The foam roller is dense which provides a smoother finish. If you were to use a regular napped roller, you’d get a textured finish. I prefer using this type of roller. - Source: Internet
  • You do not need to apply a polyurethane finish to painted kitchen cabinets if you’ve used a durable paint. If you chose a less durable paint, a clear polyurethane topcoat can help prolong its life by protecting it from premature wear. Unfortunately, not all polyurethane finishes are suited for all types of paint. Learn which paints require a polyurethane finish and which do not. Choose the correct type of poly, or finish failure could result. - Source: Internet
  • I’d say that you can achieve a smooth finish with both a paint brush and roller. The main thing here is using premium high-quality tools and products. The better the product the better the result. - Source: Internet
  • Painting in the direction of the wood grain using a 1″ or a 1½” angled brush, first, apply a thin and even coat of paint to only the recessed or detailed areas of the cabinet door. Next, take your mini foam roller and paint the remaining flat areas. Use your roller to gently smooth out any overlapping brush marks or paint drips. - Source: Internet
  • Unless you are using chalk paint which doesn’t require a primer, make sure that you prime your cabinets well before painting. Kitchen cabinet painting is a major undertaking and not one I would want to have to do twice because of paint peeling. Use a good, primer such as Cover Stain. - Source: Internet
  • As for the hardware installation details that we promised in our timeline above, we bought these handy Liberty Hardware guides at Home Depot for $7 to help us place everything evenly (centered side to side, and consistently at the same height so all the doors match up). Let’s call it the best seven beans we’ve ever spent (it’s incredibly nerve-wracking to drill through your freshly painted cabinet doors, to say the least – so any tool to make it more of a science is a friend of mine). My only tip is to double check everything ten times before drilling. And see those white blobs on the template on the left? Those are small pieces of masking tape that we used to surround “the good holes” (the ones we were using) so we didn’t accidentally drill into the one to the left or the right. - Source: Internet
  • Sanding is a crucial step in the cabinet painting process. It helps the bond of the primer and paint. Now, the is a way to paint kitchen cabinets without sanding and that’s by using chalk paint. - Source: Internet
  • This step depends on the shape of your cabinets and if you are changing out your kitchen cabinet hardware or not. If you are and the new hardware you chose doesn’t line up with the old holes, now is the time to fill them. Patch the holes and any other imperfections with a high-quality filler like Bondo and let that dry. - Source: Internet
  • No, not because we enjoy doing extra work, but this is for when we paint the cabinets. You don’t see behind the hinge which makes it the perfect place to put your piece of tape. As for the other piece of tape on top of the numbered ones, that protects the number from paint. - Source: Internet
  • Feed-N-Wax is ideal for enhancing the depth of grain while providing added protection and luster to furniture, antiques, and cabinets. Feed-N-Wax helps introduce conditioning oils that ‘feed’ the wood while providing a protective coating of beeswax and carnauba wax. Feed-N-Wax can be used on finished or unfinished wood to help preserve and keep the wood from drying out, fading, or even cracking. Feed-N-Wax should be used whenever wood starts to look faded or dry, usually every month or so. - Source: Internet
  • Many DIYers think, if they do a light coat, or if the temperature will dry the paint quickly it doesn’t really matter. Doors are set vertically against something, painted and gravity does what it is best at. Paint drips and dries unevenly. - Source: Internet
  • Bottom Line I recommend a paste wax for items that will get minimal to moderate use. Chairs, benches, picture frames, lamps, decor that will hang on the wall, even cabinets. You absolutely can use wax on tabletops, but just keep in mind you will need to reapply it a couple times a year to achieve the best protection. As with all top coat options, a cure time of about two weeks is recommended for the ultimate protection (follow instructions on product). - Source: Internet
  • The topcoat itself is very protective (this why I gave 2 stars and not just 1) but it did not work for me. It created much more work for me to correct the problem. However, if you are using this on a darker color then this would probably work for you. Otherwise you may end up with random blotchy strokes of yellowing paint. - Source: Internet
  • Today I want to share the steps on how to paint kitchens cabinets and get a smooth finish like the pros. Along with a few tips and tricks to make the process as smooth as possible. Also, I’ll answer a few of the most asked questions regarding painting kitchen cabinets. - Source: Internet
  • You want to make sure all hardware is removed from the cabinet drawers and doors. Once that is completed, you need to move the tape you have put on the cabinets. I know, I know, we just put it there! Stay with me though. - Source: Internet
  • Let me first start by saying we paint a ton of kitchen cabinets. And when I say we, I mean the extremely skilled professional painting crew we have. They have been painting kitchen cabinets for years and have perfected the process. - Source: Internet
  • The first method you can use to paint your cabinets is with a paint brush. This may be the most time-consuming method however, you can certainly use a paint brush and still achieve a smooth finish on your cabinets. The key to this method is using a premium paint brush. - Source: Internet
  • To reduce the occurrence of yellowing, we formulated Stain Blocker, a chemical stain and tannin blocking primer, and Brushable White Enamel. But the safest route is no use of topcoat over whites and light paint. As all of our white pigmented paints are self-sealing and do not require a topcoat, we warn users as follows: - Source: Internet
  • Not bad when you compare that to the 7K total of the new white cabs that we selected for our first house’s much smaller kitchen. Le yikes. And we love that we added an entire peninsula with secondhand cabinets for under $95 (one of them was even free) – which is definitely one of those DIY coups that makes ya proud. All that storage and extra workspace is already coming in handy. - Source: Internet
  • There’s a big problem when you repaint your kitchen cabinets. Your kitchen cabinets are a big part of your kitchen. So, when it doesn’t match with the rest of your items, it’s going to look out of proportion. - Source: Internet
  • But the real question is: do you really want to have to paint your furniture again in a year or two or five?A top coat is a sealant, it will seal and protect your chalk paint from being ruined by moisture or sticky fingers or even weather. Aside from protection, a top coat will further enhance the color of your chalk painted furniture. This is especially desirable for bright pieces or pieces with a lot of contrast. - Source: Internet
  • Solvent-based polyurethane is suited for cabinets coated with oil-based paint. It is not suited for cabinets coated with water-based flat, eggshell or satin latex paint. if you apply a solvent-based polyurethane over a water-based finish, potential adhesion problems could lead to flaking. Because solvent-based polyurethane is less flexible than water-based undercoats, cracking can sometimes occur. For best results, use solvent-based polyurethane with oil-based finishes. - Source: Internet
  • A second coat of paint is always required for a smooth, quality finish. Two thin coats of paint will always have better coverage and a smoother finish rather than one thick coat. There’s no point in trying to cut corners now you made it this far in the process! - Source: Internet
  • This is a very crucial step in the process. You must clean and degrease your cabinets of any built-up residue, cooking grease, or dirt. This degreaser is great to use for this step. Having a clean starting surface will ensure you get the best end result. - Source: Internet
  • To seal your chalk painted kitchen cabinets, go with polycrylic. It’s the most durable. We know kitchen cabinets can take a beating, so durability is key here. Polycrylic is a one-and-done type of product, unlike a chalk paint wax that you’d have to reapply every few months. - Source: Internet
  • We mentioned in this post that two of the retrofitted cabinets were 100% seamless, and it’s these babies in the corner. We don’t think Sherlock Holmes himself could tell, even with his nose an inch away from them. Hurrah! - Source: Internet
  • All that info above (and those three bolded links to the previous posts on puttying/sanding/deglossing, priming, & painting) should be enough to get you going on any cabinet-painting project – but just because I always think a video is worth a thousand pics, here’s a quick one that runs through the process for you. Although at some points I’m so delirious that I make up words (putty brush?) and refer to primer as paint about a dozen times. But it definitely can be helpful to see exactly how to putty a hardware hole or how to prime and paint a cabinet door. Enjoy! - Source: Internet
  • The key here is using thin coats of paint. This will limit the number of drips, pooling, and any other blemishes that can happen when painting. It will also give the cabinets a smoother finish in the end. - Source: Internet
  • The third and fastest cabinet painting method is using a paint sprayer. This is the preferred method for many paint professionals. If you want a guaranteed smooth finish on your kitchen cabinets, a paint sprayer is a great option. - Source: Internet
  • I really like using the Polycrylic on pieces that are going to be used regularly, specifically high traffic areas. I find that the finish is much more durable than wax and you don’t have to worry about reapplying it in a few months. Using polycrylic over chalk paint is one of my favorite ways to seal my projects. - Source: Internet
  • I do find it easier to have the drawers and doors propped up off the floor a bit. It makes it easier to paint the edges. A long ladder works for this too. - Source: Internet
  • Painting in the direction of the wood, apply a thin and even coat of cabinet paint. Remember, use a thin coat of paint for a smooth finish. Start with the cabinet drawers and doors, then proceed to the cabinet boxes. - Source: Internet
  • Milk Paint: A clear topcoat is not required on our Milk Paint for increased durability. It is a self-sealing, exterior rated coating with very high-performance properties. However, higher sheen topcoats provide a smoother surface that is easier to clean for high use projects such as tabletops and kitchen cabinets. - Source: Internet
  • …but it’s definitely progress. Hooray, progress. So who’s about to embark on a cabinet painting adventure of their very own? I hope this post full of details (and especially that little video we whipped up) come in handy! Have fun and don’t forget to make up words (might I recommend putty brush?). - Source: Internet
  • Yes, you can use polyurethane over chalk paint. Poly is very durable, inexpensive and watertight. However, it can be tricky to get a smooth finish and it can yellow over time. - Source: Internet
  • Painting your kitchen cabinets is a perfect way to give a dated kitchen a fresh look, without splurging on a big overhaul. It doesn’t cost much and with the proper preparation, it’ll look great and last long. We’ve outlined each of the steps below, including a video recap of all of the steps that we used to updated our wood kitchen cabinets. - Source: Internet
  • To do this, get a separate container and add your wax. Take a teaspoon of mineral spirits and add it to the wax. Mix them together completely. The Mineral Spirits loosen up the wax making it easier to apply to your chalk painted furniture. If you find the wax to still be too hard add a tiny bit more mineral spirits. - Source: Internet
  • If you have access to sawhorses, and 2 long pieces of wood, you can use them to make a raised workstation. This way you aren’t painting on the ground. However, if you don’t have the sawhorses, you can lay the wood on a drop cloth and paint the cabinet doors and drawers there. - Source: Internet
  • To avoid, resanding and repainting horizontally, paint the right way from the start. Let each side dry completely before turning them over to do the other side. That means let them dry to the touch, then another hour of drying time. - Source: Internet
  • Yes, it is paintable as long as it isn’t peeling off and it’s in good condition. If you want to remove the thermofoil instead of painting you can do so with a heat gun. Painting it is just like painting any other laminate or melamine surface, sand with 120 grit lightly, apply BIN shellac primer, then paint. - Source: Internet
  • Of course, the most protective coatings come from the highest quality paint products. After you’ve completed the required prep work, then, you or your local painters should select the proper type of paint for your cabinets. Both oil-based and latex paints can be used for cabinet painting purposes, though the former often yields visible brush marks and takes longer to dry while the latter (latex) offers a more even coating and shorter dry time. Whichever type of paint you choose, you’ll also have to select the best paint finish for cabinets. Glossier finishes are more protective and easiest to clean, so most experts recommend going with semi-gloss or high-gloss paints (at least for the cabinet doors and drawers). - Source: Internet
  • adhesion. Use 100-150 grit sandpaper and sand the cabinets. You don’t need to complete sand off the finish, sand it just enough to all the primer to adhere properly. - Source: Internet
  • We gave the doors a full day to dry before flipping them over and applying a first coat to the fronts (the reason we did the backs first was that just in case the backs got marked up while we painted the front, at least the front would remain pristine). The day of drying time did the trick though, so the backs look as good as the fronts. Days 8 & 9: We applied the first and second coat of paint to the front of the doors over these two days. Read a lot more on the puttying, sanding, and deglossing steps of this process here (there are lots of pics too!). - Source: Internet
  • Using the 220 grit sandpaper, lightly sand all surfaces (front and back) as even as possible in preparation for the final finish coat of paint. Now is a good time to inspect your cabinets for any blemishes that may have occurred along the way. The next step is the final coat of paint, so it’s crucial you make sure they are perfect for that glass-like smooth finish on your cabinets. - Source: Internet
  • I know painting your kitchen cabinets can seem a bit daunting and labor-intensive. Don’t get me wrong, it’s no walk in the park, but it can be done. As long as you follow all of the steps, especially the ones that go into the preparation, you can achieve smooth painted kitchen cabinets. If you put in the time and effort you will have the kitchen cabinet makeover you’ve been dreaming of. - Source: Internet
  • Flat Out Flat, a clear, flat, water-based topcoat, is their latest innovation, a response to the durability issue with chalk paint and milk paint. Flat Out Flat Topcoat, a finish designed to preserve the look, feel and color while increasing the durability of milk paint and chalk paint with a single coat. Flat Out Flat dries in about two to four hours under normal conditions.cleanup is easy with warm soapy water. - Source: Internet
  • Choose a clear coat of satin finish polyurethane if you want a shiny surface. Polyurethane does not require any maintenance. Once you are done, you are done. Make sure you get the WATER-BASED version, opposed to the oil-based version (except of course if you went with oil paint or stain). The water version adheres to the water-based paints, dries faster, doesn’t stink and adds scratch-proof protection. - Source: Internet
  • Nowadays you get all sorts of clear coats in stores. But turns out not every one of those types is good enough. There are coats you wouldn’t near your kitchen cabinets. - Source: Internet
  • Painting your kitchen cabinets is an amazing alternative to investing in new ones. It’s a fantastic budget-friendly way to update your kitchen without the inconvenience of an expensive full-scale kitchen renovation. Kitchen cabinet painting is the best way to get a new look without the hassle. - Source: Internet
  • Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish is a crystal clear, ultra fast-drying protective topcoat. It protects and adds beauty to interior wood surfaces including woodwork, furniture, doors and cabinets. The finish is crystal clear and dries quickly. Cleans up is easy with just some warm water. - Source: Internet
  • Use a professional sprayable “white coat” such as our professional Enduro White Poly. It is a white paint with “increased topcoat properties”, is a stand-alone finish when 3 coats are applied and sealing with a topcoat. Brushable White Enamel was developed as a stand-alone finish for those who want a bright white but do not use spray equipment. - Source: Internet
  • Bottom line for poly top coats Use a poly top coat when you need the ultimate protection. This includes pieces that will be heavily used and come into daily contact with liquids and other messes. Multiple coats will give you the best protection so your painted or stained piece will look great for years! Please follow the manufacturer’s directions on the product you choose. Choose water-based over oil-based, especially over white paint! - Source: Internet
  • It is much faster than demolishing and removing old cabinets and installing new ones. Painting your kitchen cabinets is ore affordable than installing new cabinets. It allows you to avoid a major renovation and keep the same layout as your existing cabinets It’s environmentally friendly. You avoid throwing out perfectly useable materials just for a new cabinet color. - Source: Internet
  • We applied a second coat of paint on the back of the cabinet doors and the frames after Clara went to bed. As for applying any sealer or topcoat, the general pro recommendation for cabinet painting is to use high quality stain blocking primer and 2-3 thin and even coats of super high quality paint with ample drying time between coats (Benjamin Moore’s Advance paint is meant for cabinets without any top coat, since sealers can drip, yellow, and even cause things to stick/crack since they thicken the application). Day 7: We gave the doors a full day to dry before flipping them over and applying a first coat to the fronts (the reason we did the backs first was that just in case the backs got marked up while we painted the front, at least the front would remain pristine). The day of drying time did the trick though, so the backs look as good as the fronts. - Source: Internet
  • When I first began chalk painting furniture I used a DIY chalk paint recipe because I was trying to keep costs down. That was the same for the chalk paint sealer. Annie Sloan had been more expensive than some of the other sealer options so I decided to use one of those. I’ve seen and heard some amazing reviews though. And rest assured Annie Sloan Wax is on my list to try. - Source: Internet
  • If your cabinets are looking a little tired, it might be time for a makeover. For many years, natural wood stains and whitewashes were the most popular cabinet finishes. And while woodgrains still hold appeal in some markets, painted cabinets are now universally hot. - Source: Internet
  • I understand that not everyone has access to a paint sprayer. But don’t let that stop you from painting your kitchen cabinets. You can still achieve a smooth cabinet finish by using a high-quality roller and paint brush. - Source: Internet
  • There are liquid waxes as well, and they’re creamy rather than solid. Rather than apply with a rag, you brush the cream wax on. It’s a thick, milky liquid that quickly dries, and then you buff it (just like with the paste wax) to work it into the painted furniture and bring out that delightful sheen. - Source: Internet
  • I’ve used cream wax to protect painted home decor projects as well, like this hand-painted Cream waxes are easy to apply with a brush, although waxed pieces will still need to be buffed. They are another great option for pieces that will get light to moderate use. As with all top coat options, a cure time of about 2 weeks is recommended for the ultimate protection (follow instructions included on product). If your piece has a lot of grooves and decorative appliques that you want to paint, I’d recommend using a cream wax as a brush will get into those tiny spaces much easier than a rag!I’ve used cream wax to protect painted home decor projects as well, like this hand-painted laundry room definition sign. Although this sign doesn’t really get touched, the wax brightened and enhanced the paint, and provides a smooth finish, making it easy to dust! You can CLICK HERE to view the entire laundry room makeover for under $200! - Source: Internet
  • There are a few different ways you can go about painting cabinets. They all may or may not be an option for you. It all depends on what painting tools you have available to you. - Source: Internet
  • The very first step to this entire process is finding the perfect cabinet paint color. I highly suggest sampling paint colors before fully committing to one. You know this is going to be a time-consuming project so, you want to make sure you are choosing a paint color that will work in your kitchen. - Source: Internet
  • If you remove the cabinet doors from their hinges, then you won’t have to worry about painting over the hinge or masking them off. Sure you can just tape hinges over…that tip is all over pinterest, but they don’t ever show you the final product. Painting around the hinges adds another layer of paint to the surface. This paint can chip and tear easily over time when the hinge is used, because it is above the metal hardware. - Source: Internet
  • Primer not only ensures good adhesion of paint, but it also increased the paint durability. Did you know primer has plastic in it? It helps your projects be more durable! With 4 kids I have seen the need for a primer on every project, whether it is doors, cabinets, or walls. The primer also protects the wood beneath your paint. - Source: Internet
  • It’s recommended that you always seal your chalk paint. That being said you don’t necessarily have to seal it. Beware though, unsealed chalk paint is more susceptible to the elements such as chipping, and wearing. It’s certainly not a go idea if the chalk painted item is in a high-traffic area. - Source: Internet
  • Day 5 : With the primer all done and dry (be sure to read the can – ours said not to over-prime, so one coat did the trick), during Clara’s nap we flipped the cabinet doors over again and painted one coat of paint on the backs (we used Benjamin Moore’s Advance paint in Cloud Cover). We applied it with a high quality 2″ angled brush to get into all the cracks and a small foam roller to smooth everything out and ensure that we were applying super thin and even coats (there’s a video of the application process a bit further down in this post). Clara woke up before we could paint the frames, so after she went to bed that night we put a first coat on the cabinet frames. - Source: Internet
  • IF YOU ARE A PAINTING PROFESSIONAL, DO NOT CARRY THE COST OF WHITE PAINT YOURSELF – include the cost of the increased labor for applying white paints with a fair, reasonable up-charge. White paints, even if they did not yellow, require more coats and high-quality primers to achieve coverage. See our video How to Achieve a Bright White Finish that Lasts for more information. - Source: Internet
  • If you’re still wondering if chalk paint can really transform a dated piece of furniture, this makeover will make you a believer! This product by Rustoleum is another durable poly top coat option that is easy to find, inexpensive and durable. I used Rustoleum Chalked chalk paint on this pale blue chalk painted cabinet but opted not to apply the topcoat because this piece is more decorative and doesn’t get daily use; however, I’m planning to go back and brush on the top coat to just the top of the piece, where I place decorative items. The top coat will protect it from scratches.If you’re still wondering if chalk paint can really transform a dated piece of furniture, this makeover will make you a believer! Go here to see the super ugly, dark and dated before! - Source: Internet
  • One note, before we get into mistakes: If you want a smooth finish I would strongly encourage you to skip the brushes and use a paint sprayer for your job. There are 50$ paint sprayers at Walmart that you can use, however, they require frequent refills, and with my experience drip paint and often get clogged. This paint sprayer will be an investment in any DIY projects, giving you a flawless finish, and saving you hours of work. Graco is the best company out there when it comes to painting sprayers. Think about it. - Source: Internet
  • A picture is worth a thousand words. Looking at before and after pictures of painted kitchen cabinets can help you envision your cabinets painted. It may help you decide to give this process a try. - Source: Internet
  • Terms of Agreement and Warranties: ________ (Initials) I have been informed that more coats are required when painting with bright whites, reds, greens or yellows. I understand that white paint can yellow over time and water-based topcoats can react with the substrate or existing finish under white paints causing yellowing, even if a stain-blocking primer is used. I have been informed that topcoat over white or light paints should NOT be used. - Source: Internet
  • Just think about it…Great Aunt Myrtle’s dark and dated bedroom suite that has been languishing in your garage or basement for years can now be brought into the light with a chalky paint transformation! Or that piece you spotted in the thrift store that was a fabulous price but was covered in water rings and spots…not a problem when you cover it up with a couple coats of chalky paint! - Source: Internet
  • As we’ve said before, you can apply it for any kind of surface. But that doesn’t include graffiti paintings. For that purpose, you need to get yourself a container of anti-graffiti coating. - Source: Internet
    1. The first is durability. Poly top coats are hands down more durable and offer the ultimate protection for your painted furniture. - Source: Internet
  • Americana Decor wax is very liquidy. It was so easy to work with, you just brush it on. I liked this chalk paint wax when I was going for a more glossy look. I just found it glossed the piece up beautifully. - Source: Internet
  • To seal your outdoor calk painted projects, use a poly. Poly is watertight and durable. It’s no the best option to use a sealing wax. Wax is far less durable and it melts in high heat. - Source: Internet
  • You can do this project outside, ideally on a covered porch, but you risk dirt and leaves. An empty basement is another good place as long as you have good lighting. You can also do this project in phases so you are only painting 5-10 doors at a time. - Source: Internet
  • I love this flat top coat by General Finishes! It’s available in multiple sheens, from flat to glossy, depending on your needs. I used it on the top of this I love this flat top coat by General Finishes! It’s available in multiple sheens, from flat to glossy, depending on your needs. I used it on the top of this painted cabinet and it has held up tremendously! In fact, the heavy mirror recently fell off the wall, and landed on this painted and stenciled piece and it barely left a scratch! - Source: Internet
  • The process of painting a piece of furniture can be time-consuming. It would be a shame to spend all that time and effort on a piece just to have it ruined because you didn’t seal the chalk paint on that bad boy. Don’t let all your hard work go to waste!!! - Source: Internet
  • There may be those who disagree with me, butIt really depends on what the piece will be used for and whether or not a top coat is necessary to protect your painted piece.Here’s an easy way to decide whether you need a top coat for your chalk painted furniture.I no longer have little kids at home, so I’m not too worried about the table legs or body of a dresser getting gross! I still thinks it’s best to always use a top coat on the tops of pieces (remember my rule of thumb), but I often leave the base free of a top coat.Furthermore, I don’t always use a top coat on painted decor that is hung on the wall and rarely touched. Bottom Line - Source: Internet
  • Chalk painted furniture has such a beautiful look to it. I love using chalk paint for all my furniture makeovers. It is a fun and not to mention a budget-friendly way to transform ugly, outdated furniture pieces. Check out my DIY chalk paint recipe. - Source: Internet
  • I’ve had a few inquiries from followers of my site asking for tips on painting kitchen cabinets. A new coat of paint on your cabinets can make the entire kitchen have a facelift. With all the great new colors and DIY tutorials, it is no wonder why painting kitchen cabinets are becoming popular. - Source: Internet
  • For those who can’t watch the video above to see my shot of the painted cabinets up close, the picture below might shed a little light on the whole oak-grain thing. Using high quality primer and good self-leveling paint helps hide a lot although it doesn’t guarantee 100% invisible grain (we don’t see any evidence of grain on the oak cabinets in the office but do see a hint of it on the kitchen cabinets, so it probably just depends how much grain your cabinets have to begin with). We don’t mind painted wood that looks like painted wood though, so a little grain is ok with us, as long as the paint is nice and even and glossy. - Source: Internet
  • In my own personal opinion, YES! I would use BIN shellac primer if you have previously stained cabinets, melamine or cabinets that are shiny and need some good adhesion. BIN primer does smell, and because it is shellac based you must clean your brushes/sprayer with denatured alcohol regular soap and water will not work. Another primer I use on most surfaces is the Zinsser 1,2,3 Bullseye primer. This one is water based so clean up is a breeze and will work as a primer on any surface that isn’t listed above as a hard to primer surface. - Source: Internet
  • Wait! It’s not over yet. You see, the INSL-X coat was specifically made for kitchen cabinets. So, it goes without saying that it sticks a lot better than other coats. - Source: Internet
  • : With the primer all done and dry (be sure to read the can – ours said not to over-prime, so one coat did the trick), during Clara’s nap we flipped the cabinet doors over again and painted one coat of paint on the backs (we used Benjamin Moore’s Advance paint in Cloud Cover). We applied it with a high quality 2″ angled brush to get into all the cracks and a small foam roller to smooth everything out and ensure that we were applying super thin and even coats (there’s a video of the application process a bit further down in this post). Clara woke up before we could paint the frames, so after she went to bed that night we put a first coat on the cabinet frames. Day 6: We applied a second coat of paint on the back of the cabinet doors and the frames after Clara went to bed. As for applying any sealer or topcoat, the general pro recommendation for cabinet painting is to use high quality stain blocking primer and 2-3 thin and even coats of super high quality paint with ample drying time between coats (Benjamin Moore’s Advance paint is meant for cabinets without any top coat, since sealers can drip, yellow, and even cause things to stick/crack since they thicken the application). - Source: Internet
  • It’s important to add 3 coats to your doors for a professional finish. It starts with 1 coat of stain blocking primer and is followed up with 2 coats of cabinet paint. Sometimes an extra coat of paint is required when dark cabinets are being painted white. - Source: Internet
  • CAUTION: Do NOT use any water-based clear coat over bright whites such as GF Snow White Milk Paint, or GF White Poly as it may cause yellowing. Lighter-colored paints may alter slightly with a topcoat application, but the color shift is less noticeable. Any clear coat can become reactive over wood substrates or existing finishes, causing tannin or dye bleed-though regardless of priming. All of GF’s white paints do NOT require a topcoat. - Source: Internet
  • If you are working on period pieces such as a 1940’s serpentine mahogany desk which were often finished in stain containing aniline dyes that cast a pinkish bleed-through under light paint, stay away from light colors. Not every piece of furniture is suitable for up-cycling with a light paint color. Pine, Mahogany, and furniture of the 1940’s and 50’s are a red flag. - Source: Internet
  • Choose the proper paintbrush when applying polyurethane. Use a natural-bristle paintbrush when working with solvent-based poly; use a synthetic brush to apply water-based polyurethane. Though you can use a synthetic nylon-bristle paintbrush to apply a water-based poly, a polyester-bristle brush will provide slicker, more attractive results. - Source: Internet
  • That is entirely personal preference and depends on you! Do you prefer to paint it on or would applying wax with a rag be easier? Keep in mind that both will require buffing…remember, buffing not only removes any excess wax you may have applied, but it works the wax into the chalk paint, giving it the best protection. The finished look is the same. - Source: Internet
  • High-sheen paints, such as gloss latex and acrylic enamel, are stain-resistant and durable enough to withstand duress. If you’ve painted your cabinets with one of these types of coatings, you do not need to add a polyurethane finish. If you painted your cabinets with a low-sheen flat, eggshell or satin latex paint, you can add a polyurethane topcoat to protect the finish from stains and fading. - Source: Internet
  • Whites have a lower “hide” quality and are more transparent than other colors. Most bright whites require additional coats to achieve the desired color and minimize color variation. This can increase the cost of paint finishing. Always include a clause in your contracts addressing the need for additional coats to achieve coverage. - Source: Internet
  • Yes! Always sand with a 220 grit sanding block. Just lightly enough to knock off any of the bumps or spray bubbles/drips. If you have a mess up drip sand that down until you can no longer feel it as your run your hand along it… then paint the next coat. I sand in-between primer and paint and in between paint coats. Do not sand the final coat. - Source: Internet
  • Bottom Line Cream waxes are easy to apply with a brush, although waxed pieces will still need to be buffed. They are another great option for pieces that will get light to moderate use. As with all top coat options, a cure time of about 2 weeks is recommended for the ultimate protection (follow instructions included on product). If your piece has a lot of grooves and decorative appliques that you want to paint, I’d recommend using a cream wax as a brush will get into those tiny spaces much easier than a rag! - Source: Internet
  • The most popular paint color is white. White is timeless and goes with almost any wall and counter color. Grey is also popular for cabinets, but truthfully, you can choose whatever colour you choose. You also have the option to do one colour for the island and a different colour for the rest of your cabinets; or you can choose one colour for the bottom part of the cabinets and a different one for top doors. - Source: Internet
  • Water-based polyurethane is well-suited for low-sheen flat, eggshell or satin latex paint. If you painted your cabinets with any of these paints, apply a water-based poly over the top to prolong the life of the finish. Do not apply water-based polyurethane over the top of gloss latex and acrylic enamel. Not only is this unnecessary, but the high sheen is likely to prevent the poly from properly adhering. - Source: Internet
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