How To Fix A Dead Lawn Quickly: 76 Facts

This time, we’re going to talk about How To Fix A Dead Lawn Fast. There is a lot of information about Lawn Looks Dead After Winter on the internet, of course. Social media are getting better and better quickly, which makes it easier for us to learn new things.

How To Revive Dormant Grass and 4 Types of Lawn Damage (And How to Fix Them) are also linked to information about Renovating A Dead Lawn. As for other things that need to be looked up, they are about Will Watering Dead Grass Bring It Back and have something to do with Will Watering Dead Grass Bring It Back.

76 Facts How To Fix A Dead Lawn Fast | Why Is My New Grass Dying

• If you live in an area that gets cold during the winter, you may have to cut back on the amount of lawn you mow. Cutting back on lawn mowing will allow the grass to grow back to the point that it can create a healthy green lawn. If you find that dead grass patches are forming on your lawn after you have cut it back, don’t panic. This type of patch will return to its normal appearance in the spring, with the new growth appearing as healthy grass. - Source: Internet
• There’s a problem with that though – the moss turns black, then needs to be removed. So, the next thing to do is to get rid of it and scarifying is the number one way to do that. If you have a lawn over 40 square metres, I highly recommend getting an electric one. I think I picked mine up from Aldi for about £40. Not bad eh? - Source: Internet
• About the only thing you could undertake during the heat is watering , applications of wetting agent and spiking the lawn to allow water and rain to penetrate. Using lawn sandals, rolling aerators or a garden fork you will only be able to prick the lawn surface initially due to it being very hard. Applying a wetting agent next will assist water to penetrate, reduce run-off thus improving water usage and reducing wastage. Water or wait for rain and spike again as the surface softens. You can’t over do either at this stage. - Source: Internet
• Contrary to common homeowner practice, you should never dethatch in mid- to late spring or during your lawn’s active growing season. Dethatching at this time exposes the soil and can give weeds a chance to take over your yard. Instead, dethatch your lawn in the fall after the growing season. - Source: Internet
• Treatment and Ongoing Care There are a number of fast acting chemical pesticides, but if you use the lawn frequently or have kids or pets, it is safer to use neem oil or use biological control with nematodes or milky spore available in garden centers. A general fungicide will take care of most fungal infections, but they are toxic. Avoiding over-watering and keeping the thatch to a minimum may help avoid fungal diseases. - Source: Internet
• The best way to dethatch is to go back to the source. Remove the dead grass from the soil and rake the lawn. This will clear the area and allow you to make room for healthier grass. If the area has not been raked in a while, you may need to add some fertilizer. After you have worked the area and it is healthy again, you can begin working on the new grass. - Source: Internet
• Lawn feed isn’t exactly food; it’s more a combination of mineral nutrients that help your grass to grow. Just like other plants, grass needs a regular supply of nutrients to keep it growing healthily. The main nutrients needed are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), each of which provide your lawn with different benefits. - Source: Internet
• Our lawns have it tough over winter. Come spring, they may have bare patches or have developed areas of moss or weeds. But, if you still have a thin covering of grass, all is not lost – you can restore your lawn to its former glory. - Source: Internet
• As you can see above, there are options to revive your lawn in no time at all. Fear not though, grass is a remarkable species that can revive and recover before you know it. Keep the faith and let mother nature take her course. If you can’t wait for mother nature, carry out the steps above and you’ll have your lawn back to it’s finest in no time! - Source: Internet
• You could dig down into the lawn a few inches and check for moisture but a crude and reasonably accurate measure of soil moisture for lawns other than those on very sandy soil is to use a 6" phillips screw driver. If it pushes all the way into the lawn easily then you should have good moisture in your lawn. As the lawn dries it will get harder and therefore the screw driver will not penetrate as far. If the driver won’t go in more than an inch or so then your lawn is starting to become dry and care should be taken. Any less than an inch of penetration and I’d classify the lawn as dry and therefore refrain from treatments. - Source: Internet
• Finally make sure you feed the new seedlings. Use the Starter fertiliser if you’re sowing a new lawn or the Autumn fertiliser if over seeding. It’s convenient to apply them at the time of seeding but with the changing climate we now suggest feeding within 4 weeks of germination. - Source: Internet
• One way to achieve a seamless blend is to fill the dead patches with plugs of grass taken from your own lawn. This method will require you to have pre-prepared a seed tray (or more) of grass from your own lawn. But knowing that your lawn is probably going to run into this issue at some point over a growing season, it’s worth investing the time and effort. - Source: Internet
• Identifying the Exact Cause The next step is identifying the exact cause. For example, check for grub worms by digging up a small area of the lawn. If you see several worms within that small area, you have to treat your lawn with one of the grub control methods available. Treat other identified garden pests, diseases, and fungi once you’ve established they are the culprits. - Source: Internet
• Secondly it is all very dependent on the condition of the established lawn. If it is old, never been aerated, heavily used or heavily compacted then it’s water holding capacity is perhaps 20% of what it used to be as a new lawn. Healthy soil contains air spaces; it is these spaces that fill and hold the water when it rains. Compacted soil has minimal air spaces so no water holding capacity! Solving this will solve 90% of your lawns drought problems. Adding a drought tolerant grass is the icing on the cake. - Source: Internet
• 4. A history of drought: Leaves a patch of bare soil, but there is a little new growth emerging. This bare patch will fill up with weeds / Moss and possibly coarse grass unless new lawn seed is sown. - Source: Internet
• 3. Permanent drought: Appears as a darker straw colour, by this stage grass will not be likely to make a full recovery. Some of the individual plants will have died, eventually if the dead grass is not removed, and new seed introduced it will progress to resemble picture 4. During stage 3 there may be some blackening of the area as the grass folds down and starts to rot. These patches quickly fill with Weeds and Moss. - Source: Internet
• Hoping for the best once the rains have started may well cause you a lot more work in the future. Some dead areas may remain dead with an unsightly mat of brown grey grass which will not decay and thus prevents grass growing back. Yet other areas where the grass is thin or bare are a target area for weeds, weed grasses and moss. Once established they create even more work so you need to repair all areas with your chosen grass seed before problem plants take over. A stitch in time saves nine is a very apt expression in this case. - Source: Internet
• De-thatching isn’t fun, but in minor cases can be solved with a common garden rake. A de-thatching rake may be needed if the amount of thatch is severe. You’ll need to rake the entire lawn, removing any dead grass that lifts up. - Source: Internet
• You should dethatch if thatch is more than 1/2" thick. Use an iron rake or a thatch rake (also known as a “scrake”) to cut through and rake off thatch. This will also scarify the surface. For large lawns, you may want to consider renting a walk-behind dethatching machine. - Source: Internet
• The best offense is a good defense; preventing or lessening salt damage is the most effective way to keep salt and de-icers from hurting your lawn. During winter, try not to use de-icing salt (sodium chloride) — or use it sparingly. Use calcium magnesium acetate, which is the most environmentally safe product to remove ice. It is allegedly as corrosive as normal tap water. You can also use burlap screens, plastic fencing or snow fencing to protect areas of your yard adjacent to roadways from salt spray and snow buildup. - Source: Internet
• Thatch! You know that light brown stuff under the nice green stuff – that’s known as thatch!. It’s a really common problem with lawns and needs to be got rid of!. You would do this by – yeah, you guessed it – scarifying! - Source: Internet
• Salt and Chemical Causes Frequent feeding without good irrigation results in excessive salt build up in the soil. If you notice brown grass along the periphery of the lawn along your driveway or near the street, it could be salt damage from road salt or other de-icers. Salt can burn the grass roots and cause the lawn to die out. Your pets can cause dead spots in your lawn if they frequently relieve themselves on the grass. The wind can carry the herbicides you or a neighbor uses in nearby flower patches can kill your lawn as does water runoff from treated areas. - Source: Internet
• Note: Stage 3 severity is hard to identify. Grass may surprise with its ability to revive but it can take up to 6 weeks from soil rehydration for grass to recover with any vigour. After that hope will be fading fast. The ability of grass to recover depends on many variables, including: Its age, the underlying conditions – how much thatch and compaction it had pre-drought as well as what temperatures were like during the drought. High temperature means more plant stress and a greater likelihood of long-term lawn damage. - Source: Internet
• Should the worst happen with rains and recovery coming very late in the autumn you may not be able to rake or scarify and over seed before it gets too cold. In this case ensure a generous feed with our Autumn fertiliser followed by a feed of our Winter Green fertiliser early in the new year plus as much spiking as you can manage. This will give the lawn the best chance of surviving the winter, keep it looking as good as possible thus allowing you to postpone raking or scarifying until spring. - Source: Internet
• Water the area using a garden hose, giving it a good, long soaking. Spread fertilizer and some topsoil (if needed) to the patch and then water thoroughly again. Spread grass seed over the area using a seed spreader (for larger areas) or by hand (for small patches). Lightly aerate the soil again using the hand rake or an aerator to work in the seeds and fertilizer into the soil. Water the spot every day for a month or so until the grass has re-grown and blended in with the surrounding lawn. - Source: Internet
• Grass grows whenever temperatures rise above 7°C. With days lengthening and temperatures rising, early spring is the perfect time to begin a lawn rescue plan. It needn’t take up much time, as the best results come from a ‘little and often’ approach. By summer you’ll have a healthy lawn that’s able to withstand the wear and tear of regular use. - Source: Internet
• A balanced lawn feed will have these three mineral nutrients in equal measures; in other words, a ratio of 5:5:5. This would indicate a fertiliser that’s applicable all year round. A more nitrogen-heavy lawn feed will have a less balanced NPK number. It will give grass a green boost but also makes your lawn more susceptible to scorching in hot weather – so it shouldn’t be used as your main fertiliser, and should be used in combination with a slow-release fertiliser too. Luckily, lawn feed companies understand that this information is confusing so most also explain what season a particular feed is intended for. - Source: Internet
• Insects (their larvae, in particular), rodents, and birds work together to do damage to a healthy lawn. Certain beetle larvae, usually referred to as grubs, can infest the soil beneath the grass and attack roots. This can kill the grass and leave brown splotches on an otherwise green lawn. Animals such as moles, voles, chipmunks and skunks can riddle your yard with their tunnels and digging, often — as in a skunk’s case — looking to feast on grubs. Certain bird species can nibble on the grass leaves themselves, as well as make your attempts at seeding new grass more difficult. - Source: Internet
• The reason for doing this is that you don’t know if the lawn is dead or just brown. Leaving a brown lawn for an extended period may mean it really is a dead lawn. Trying to revive it may save you a lot of time and expense later on! - Source: Internet
• A litre of this concentrated lawn feed is pretty economical: it makes up to 50 watering cans’ worth (although you can also use a hose to apply it) for just £8. To use, just add two capfuls of the liquid into 4.5 litres of water, mix well and apply evenly to 10m² of your lawn. It shouldn’t be harmful to animals and children once dried, and you can apply every fortnight from March until October. - Source: Internet
• Simply spread a thin layer over the affected areas of your yard, using a lawn spreader and then thoroughly water it. You should see results in a couple of weeks. If the grass hasn’t returned to its natural green color, you may have to remove these patches and reseed. - Source: Internet
• Thatch can build-up and is often the primary cause of a damaged lawn. Thatch is a layer of dead or diseased grass that is found between soil and a healthy surface layer. It is brown and straw-like in appearance and holds onto excessive amounts of water, which promotes the growth of fungi and lawn disease. - Source: Internet
• Additional Care Mow the brown portion and run a rake through the lawn to break up the hard surface. When the ground has been dry and hard for a few weeks, you may need to plug the lawn to allow water to percolate deep into root zone. It can take several weeks to bring back your lawn to a lush green. Broadcast some rye grass seeds; they will sprout fast and turn the lawn green while you wait for the dormant grass to spring back. - Source: Internet
• Regularly aerate your lawn. This helps oxygen make it to your grass’s roots by breaking through compacted soil. A healthy lawn goes a long way toward avoiding weeds in the first place. - Source: Internet
• Thoroughly water your lawn adjacent to concrete surfaces to flush remaining salt, de-icer and residue from plants and soil. Try adding a few drops of a mild dishwashing liquid to a hose-end sprayer attachment when spraying your yard using a garden hose. This will wash away salt residue and any other buildup from the grass and help oxygen make its way to the roots. - Source: Internet
• Top dressing comes in a few different forms. There’s 100% top soil or 70/30 soil to sand ratio. There’s even calcified seaweed which is 100% organic and used as a lawn dressing as a great way of conditioning the soil. - Source: Internet
• Weeds compete with grass for survival. They must be removed in order for your lawn to thrive and look its best. Your local True Value hardware store carries a number of commercial weed killers that you can use to kill weeds, but not the surrounding grass. - Source: Internet
• Simply scatter around 35g of the granular feed per 1m² patch of lawn and water it thoroughly straight after application. If you’re keen to help the germination of the added grass seed present in the feed then keep the lawn well watered for the next fortnight. The organic matter won’t stain like other fertilisers if you happen to step across it, and won’t scorch your lawn either, even if it’s over-applied. - Source: Internet
• MOOWY gives an all-round nutrient boost for your grass, no matter what the season. It’s a slow-release fertiliser that keeps working for 60 days, strengthening plant roots and boosting the chlorophyll in your grass thanks to its high nitrogen content. MOOWY suggests mowing your lawn no shorter than 5cm before spreading the granules evenly and then lightly watering in, regardless of the time of year you’re using it. You should see greener grass within seven days, although bear in mind that there’s no weed or moss killer in this feed. - Source: Internet
• Lawns Killed by Infestations It is not unusual for pests and diseases to damage a lawn, but they rarely destroy the whole lawn. If you find patches of dead grass, big or small, it is worth investigating if some insects or fungus are killing your lawn. Take hold of a handful of grass and pull it; if it comes away easily, you might be having a disease or pest problem. - Source: Internet
• Patches of dead grass can spoil the look and feel of your entire lawn. Grass is very resilient however it can be frustrating when you want to revive your grass fast. Here is how to revive dead grass fast. - Source: Internet
• What we’re talking about here are patches of dry grass or rings of dry brown or dead grass in otherwise green lawns. These conditions still occur in dry weather but usually occur most years in certain lawns after only short periods of drought. This is more a lawn and soil problem rather than a climate problem and is something that you can quite easily address by using a wetting agent. Have a read of the page on Dry Patch or on Fairy Rings. - Source: Internet
• Save over 20% on Miracle-Gro Liquid Concentrate Lawn Food For fast-action lawn feed, Miracle-Gro’s Liquid Concentrate Lawn Food is a perfect option - that is now even cheaper. In just 24 hours, a 1-litre bottle of Miracle-Gro Evergreen should revitalise 100m² of your grass. Amazon Was £9 Now £7 Buy Now - Source: Internet
• If you’re keen to get going on your lawn early in the year – make sure you wait until the grass is growing fully before you do. If you do this job too early in the Spring, you may find weeds come through instead of the grass because the grass won’t be able to recover quickly enough. As it’s not yet started growing. - Source: Internet
• This liquid lawn feed kicks into action in just 24 hours, so it’s a great option if you need fast results. Using the measuring cap provided, add 40ml of the liquid feed into four litres of water. Once it’s been thoroughly mixed in, use a rose or sprinkle bar attachment on your watering can to apply it to the lawn. Wait until the lawn has dried off before allowing children and pets into the area again, and you should see a deeper green shade across your grass by the next day. - Source: Internet
• This is no different from giving the lawn a good rake or scarify as you would for moss or thatch but with the addition of aeration by spiking. Do NOT hollow tine as this has the effect of increasing the rate of evaporation (drying) which is the opposite of what a lawn suffering from drought needs! So, scarify to clear away dead material, expose the soil, spike, top dress if you wish, though not essential, then put in your chosen grass seed and fertiliser in that order. You can follow the procedure either by watching the videos or by reading starting with the page ‘How to Rake and Scarify’. If your lawn also has a moss problem start from the page ‘Moss Removal’. - Source: Internet
• Technically there is no such thing but a grass that has deep roots will tap into water deeper in the soil thus staying greener longer; at least long enough to survive a typical British summer. That is all true when using drought tolerant grass (deep roots) to establish a new lawn. Over seeding an existing lawn is a different ball game altogether. - Source: Internet
• Reviving the Lawn To revive a patchy lawn due to thatch, first check its thickness. Dig out a small section and measure the brown area. If it is less than an inch, you can break up the thatch with a de-thatching rake. If it is much thicker, you may need to use a mechanical or powdered de-thatcher, depending on how much area has to be covered. - Source: Internet
• Yellow spots on your lawn are often the work of man’s best friend, whether it’s your dog or a neighbor’s wandering canine. In most cases, a dog’s waste can be beneficial to grass because it acts as natural fertilizer. However, dog urine has high concentrations of nitrogen in it. When this nitrogen is combined with the natural nitrogen amount in soil, this high concentration overloads the soil and damages it, causing the grass to turn yellow. - Source: Internet
• Choosing the correct grass type is important for how to revive dead grass. Different types of grass have different features. For example, sod grass needs to be mowed higher than other types of grass to maintain its fullness and beauty. Fescues are low maintenance but are often used for lawns that need to regrow fast because they are naturally vigorous. - Source: Internet
• 2. Transition: This is how a lawn may look in a later stage of temporary drought. It hasn’t yet passed the point of no return, but large patches may be shut down/dormant and look like straw. This is a common condition on most lawns during most East Anglian summers. Recovery once moisture returns is quick - Source: Internet
• If the blade-like leaf surfaces on the dead grass are alive, your yard should quickly revive itself by watering it, but if they are dead, then your lawn would need to be treated by a professional. The blade-like leaf surfaces provide water runoff with roots down into the soil. If they are not properly cared for, the roots can cause erosion and cause brown patches on the lawn. These brown patches can be permanent or temporary depending on the amount of water and fertilizer that is applied. A professional lawn care service can determine which type of patches you have, how deep they are, and how to remove them in the future. - Source: Internet
• Reduce Impact and Treat If you suspect chemical burn, the least you can do is reduce the impact by thoroughly watering the lawn. This will wash away most of the residues. Adding gypsum salt or limestone may help. Reseeding may be necessary if there’s extensive damage. - Source: Internet
• Our rule for all treatments to the lawn is ‘only when it is actively growing and there is moisture in the soil’. Start too early and you may increase the damage. So, no repair work should be undertaken during heat and dry weather. This means repair is anytime from the first autumn after the damage ideally when things cool down and the rains start. Repairing in the same year as the damage is better and easier than repairing the following year. - Source: Internet
• Liquid lawn feed is perfect for smaller gardens or those with no hose, and it can be reapplied every six weeks throughout the summer. As this is purely a lawn feed it won’t kill off weeds or moss, so it can be used in combination with another feed. A 1-litre bottle of Miracle-Gro Evergreen should cover 100m² of your grass. - Source: Internet
• Take a general-purpose seed tray and fill it with a general compost. Take a 3-inch deep cutting from your lawn edge or an inconspicuous area of your lawn. This doesn’t have to be too long or wide. Several smaller sections are preferable Place the cuttings into the seed tray. Place the tray outside or inside a cold frame. - Source: Internet
• aids with leaf growth, resulting in a deep green colour when your lawn is happiest. Nitrogen-heavy lawn feeds are best applied when grass puts out new growth, so in the spring and summer. Phosphorus (or phosphate) helps with root development, as strong roots mean less disease and fewer pests. It’s best applied in early spring or autumn. - Source: Internet
• Regular cultivation is a handy task for any grass that is in desperate need of a helping hand. By using Aerators, you can quickly create holes in your lawn that allow water, light, and air to access the roots of your grass. It will let new grass to grow below and break through the topsoil. - Source: Internet
• You can apply Westland SafeLawn every three weeks between February and September, but it’s advised not to use during either a drought or when the ground is frosted over. This 5.25kg bag should provide 150m² of lawn coverage. - Source: Internet
• More often than not, you can still revive a dead lawn without having to pull it apart and start all over. Success at reviving a dead lawn depends on the how long the grass has been dead; generally, any lawn that appears dead for a short period spanning 3 to 5 weeks can be regrown. Troubleshooting and care also factor in, and will depend on what caused the death in the first place. - Source: Internet
• The horticultural answer to the question is whenever the lawn temperature is warm. This will be between mid-late spring all the way through to mid-autumn. Reviving a lawn in winter should definitely be avoided. - Source: Internet
• How to Revive a Dead Grass in Your Lawn Without Cutting It? With the availability of synthetic grass for residential and commercial landscaping markets, there are a number of ways to cut dead grass. However, one of the most effective ways to avoid the deadening and browning effect of dead grass is to properly water your lawn. Before you attempt any water process on your lawn, you should thoroughly inspect the lawn’s crowns where the bright green surface of individual blade-like leaves come. - Source: Internet
• Dead grass and weeds will often form on the surface of your lawn. They will grow into the narrow nooks and crannies where the grass usually grows. When you apply an organic weed killer, the weeds will die and the lawn can regrow quickly. - Source: Internet
• Thankfully, a dead lawn means you have the chance to start again and discover the errors that caused the problem. But fixing a dead a lawn can be a difficult task, especially if you’re new to it. Here are some helpful tips that are key to reviving any dead grass: - Source: Internet
• Because it includes high amounts of both potassium and nitrogen, the Miracle-Gro Evergreen lawn feed shouldn’t be applied to bone dry grass as it can result in scorching. This can also happen if you use too much – so stick to the recommended 35g per square metre, scattered onto the grass by hand and then watered in if no rain falls after two days. Don’t walk on the lawn until the Miracle-Gro has fully dried either, as the iron sulphate can leave brown stains on clothes or patio slabs. Children and pets should also be kept away from the grass at this time. - Source: Internet
• If you have just a few spots of dead grass on your lawn, then you can re-seed. To do so, you’ll need to remove the dead grass spot and any debris around it. Then you can rake the soil over, and prepare new soil. Finally, you can sprinkle seed on the new soil, which will then need to be kept moist while it grows. Remember to use the same grass seeds as the rest of your lawn! - Source: Internet
• Drought recovery can be impacted by patches or even large areas of the soil under a lawn becoming hydrophobic. The soil here has become so dry, compacted and warm that it resists the ingress of water. This is called Persistent Dry Patch. - Source: Internet
• Lawn feed comes in various forms: liquid and granular are two of the most common. Although there isn’t much difference between the results they achieve, liquid lawn feed is typically cheaper as it’s concentrated, and is easier to store. Don’t over-apply a lawn feed if you don’t see immediate results either, as that can lead to black marks, holes and scorching. - Source: Internet
• In mid-spring (late March to April) , when the soil is moist or when rain is expected, you can feed your lawn with a product that contains weed and moss control. It will kill off any moss that’s grown over winter, and help accelerate grass growth after the cold months. Once the weeds are under control, it’s fine to use a lawn feed that solely feeds the grass. - Source: Internet
• Thatch builds up when grass clippings are not chopped finely enough with a mulching mower or if excessive clippings are not removed after cutting. To prevent thatch from accumulating, rake your lawn after mowing, especially at the end of the growing season. If you’ve got thatch buildup, you might need to dethatch. - Source: Internet
• Aeration Aeration involves the removal of small soil plugs that are less than 1 inch in diameter. The holes allow air, water, and nutrients to penetrate to the roots which helps grass grow deeply and produce a healthy and strong lawn. If your lawn has a lot of traffic and is regularly compacted, it is a good idea to aerate at least once a year – preferably in the spring. - Source: Internet
• Following all this good work, there’s a chance that the soil your lawn is trying to grow in has become even more compact than it was before. So, the best thing you can do afterwards is to go over the whole area with an aerator. That means taking either a garden fork, a tine aerator or a pair of aerating sandals (I know not too fashionable) and running them over the whole area. - Source: Internet
• Once a dead spot has appeared on your lawn, rake the affected area so to clear it, ready for the tray to be transplanted into it. Place the new piece of grass onto the patch and use a knife to cut it roughly to the shape of the affected area. Firm the patch in by gently standing on top of it. Water the patch thoroughly. Ensure that the patch is kept watered until the roots have had the chance to knit into the topsoil below. - Source: Internet
• How to Keep Dead Grass Off Your Lawn: One of the worst mistakes people make when trying to regrow their sod is using a weed killer. Using a weed killer to kill weeds can actually make the soil more conducive for more sod growth. Instead, use a grass enhancer to help keep the grass seed from washing away into the ground below. This grass enhancer will not only improve the health of the lawn, but will also provide essential nutrients needed by the grass to germinate and grow. - Source: Internet
• Shallow Watering and Deep Mowing If you water your lawn frequently, but not thoroughly, it can result in shallow root growth that makes your lawn susceptible to quick wilting. It may die on you suddenly if you skip a few days of watering. A sudden rise in temperature or dry winds blowing in your direction can decimate your lawn in no time. - Source: Internet
• Re-sodding your lawn is the more expensive option, but it is also the quick fix and a fix that guarantees you’ll be removing any diseased or problematic grass. Instead, you’ll have a lush and thriving lawn that will satisfy you instantly. You can go for a full or partial sod option, or alternativity use plugs or re-seeding. - Source: Internet

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