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  • The new shower fitting should let you adjust bracket positions to cover old screw holes. If you can’t use old holes, drill new ones. Stick masking tape to tile and mark position of hole (tape will stop masonry bit skating across tile before it bites). Drill 6mm holes as needed. Insert plugs into holes and screw on bracket bases. - Source: Internet
  • Remove the wall fitting or wall elbow by hand. Pick off old plumber’s tape and clean thread on pipe protruding from wall. Undo screws holding rail brackets. If screws are rusted, drill out screw head with 2mm then 4mm drill bits, remove fitting, then remove old screws using vise grips. Pull out old plastic plugs, or cut them flush with or below tile surface. - Source: Internet
  • This 2.0 gal/min head might be a good compromise between water saving and performance: https://www.amazon.com/Niagara-Conservation-Handheld-Massage-Showerhead/dp/B002OSMVE4/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6AQWCB7W5V8Z987KJ7Y3&dpID=31F%252BeqaR9dL&preST=SY300_QL70&dpSrc=detail - Source: Internet
  • Turn off shower taps. If shower continues to drip, a plumber may need to replace washer and O-rings in tap head. If there is no leakage, remove the old hose from wall elbow using multigrips. - Source: Internet
  • If you do change the head, you generally don’t need Teflon tape on the threads. The shower head will have a rubber or plastic seal that seals against the end of the pipe. Tighten just enough to seal. If this joint would leak, it would only do so when the shower is on and it would drip into the tub. - Source: Internet
  • If you take the existing head off, you may be able to remove a “flow restrictor” and get significantly higher flow with the same head, but of course the management may not approve of this. If you do remove it, then keep it and reinstall it when you leave. Depending on the diameter of the restrictor you may be able to get one which allows a more flow, but still limits it to say 2.0 gal/min. The management might approve this. - Source: Internet
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