Today’s topic is How To Test For Amp Draw. Obviously, you can find a great deal of how to test current draw on a battery-related content online. The proliferation of online platforms has streamlined our access to information.
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25 Fun Facts How To Test For Amp Draw | How To Hotwire A Car
- A parasitic draw is an excessive electrical load on the system that happens after the vehicle is turned off. There will be some activity and loads when you turn your vehicle off, your clock circuit for one. In many modern vehicles, when you shut down and remove the key, a series of events happens that can draw current for several minutes after you turn the engine off. This is normal. To see if this is excessive and test for a parasitic draw, you’ll need a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) capable of testing amps. - Source: Internet
- Connect the Multimeter to the Shut off Tool Connect the multimeter to the tool. Each multimeter is different, but connect the positive lead to the 10 amp max fuse setting. Set the dial to milliamps. Hook a lead to each side of the tool (doesn’t matter which side). - Source: Internet
- Start hunting by putting your ammeter in series with the battery’s ground circuit. Disconnect the battery’s ground cable and wire the ammeter in series between the battery terminal and the cable. Start with the meter on the highest range, probably 10 or 20 amps. Warning! Doing something silly, like trying to start the car or turn on the headlights—anything that draws more than the meter’s rated capacity—can blow the meter’s fuse. - Source: Internet
- Using the correct wrench or socket, remove the negative battery cable from the battery post. In our case, we were working on a 2000 Ford Explorer, so the battery terminal used an 8mm bolt. You can perform this test/diagnostic by using the positive or negative cable, but using the negative is much safer. Grounding a negative wire to ground is not a problem; however, grounding the positive could destroy electronics, including your multimeter. - Source: Internet
- Sometimes the battery will be so damaged that it’s unable to take a charge for a jumpstart, too. The best way to find out for sure is by taking your battery somewhere that does free battery testing. Auto parts stores like O’Reilly, Autozone, and Advance Auto Parts will all do this—then you can buy a new one right there if need be. - Source: Internet
- You walk out to your car/truck, turn the key, and you hear the glorious click-click noise. Overnight, you’ve had a battery drain, but you didn’t leave the lights on. Who knows where the battery cables are, and you haven’t recharged your jump-box since the last camping trip. Yeah, we’ve all been there. We’ll show you the simple way to find a parasitic battery drain; in other words, we will find what has caused your dead battery. - Source: Internet
- To measure the car-off current draw, you’ll need a multimeter capable of reading current, preferably one with a 10- or 20-amp capacity, but a 200 milliamp lower scale. Start with a fully charged battery. Either make sure the doors are closed or wedge the door switch shut. Turning off the dome light isn’t good enough—on many cars, an open door will activate several circuits. - Source: Internet
- I have a UPS on it now that gives wattage outputs which bounce all over the place. The highest I’ve seen is 800 watts, so my guess is 800watts/120volts should be six and two thirds amps. Do I provision 7 amps? Doesn’t sound very precise. - Source: Internet
- Repeat steps 1 & 2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you the exact numbers. - Source: Internet
- Often, when doing this test, you need to move your test leads on the DVOM to a different location when testing for amps, so be sure to check for this. It’s also important to note that you need to make sure everything is off when doing your testing. Don’t leave the trunk or any doors open, and make sure the key is removed from the ignition. This way you’re sure that there won’t be any electrical loads that you induced when doing this test that would give you false readings. - Source: Internet
- Set your multimeter to measure DC amperes (<200 mA or whatever suitable ”low” range your meter has). Don’t forget that on most multimeters you also need to move the red wire to a different connection on the meter. If you did forget, and wondered why nothing happened when you tried to measure the pedal, don’t fret – it happens all the time 😉 - Source: Internet
- Place one of the wire leads from the multimeter (it doesn’t matter which one) on the negative battery post and the other on the disconnected battery cable. You should see the multimeter display the number of Amps that are actively causing your battery drain. Use zip ties or small clamps to keep the multimeter leads connected to the battery terminal and battery wire. - Source: Internet
- Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain. - Source: Internet
- Most vehicles draw some battery current when the key is off, thanks to the clock and the internal memory of engine computers, body-control modules, and radio presets. Altogether, they draw a very small amount of current. Fifty milliamps would be a safe upper limit for this, though many vehicles will draw less. If you’re not sure, look up the correct rating in the service manual. - Source: Internet
- A couple of things to note: Some modern vehicles, especially luxury vehicles, have systems that remain on after the key has been removed and the doors have been closed. These systems might remain on for up to 30 minutes after shutdown. Keep this in mind when doing your testing. You might have to wait with your meter still hooked up for 30 minutes or more to get an accurate reading. Once you unhook the meter, things start all over again. - Source: Internet
- Find a Battery Shut Off Tool or Parasitic Draw Tester Tool You will need a battery shut off tool or a parasitic draw tester. This tool basically fits between the battery and the negative battery cable. It requires you to road test the vehicle with all the electronics on, such as the radio, heating and air conditioning, cruise control, and connect a multimeter to either end of the tool to get a reading without disrupting the modules. - Source: Internet
- Ensure the test equipment is able to function for an extended time period e.g. current clamp battery condition, scope and pc power supply. - Source: Internet
- Open the Switch and Take a Reading Open the switch on the parasitic draw tester tool. Read the reading of milliamps on the screen. Wait up to 10 minutes to an hour to see if the reading falls below 30 milliamps. - Source: Internet
- So you’ve done the test, you’ve waited an appropriate amount of time, and you’re still seeing above 50 milliamps. The next step is to start removing fuses one by one while observing the amp readings. If you see a sudden drop when removing a particular fuse, this is likely your culprit. - Source: Internet
- I’m moving my server to a co-location center and they’r not concerned with the actual wattage, which is what I’ve tracked, but they are very concerned with the peak amperage. They charge by the amps made available to the machine. Is there some industry standard way I can test that? The person I spoke with in the data center is a sales guys, so he’s not sure of the technical aspects that he’s asking me about. - Source: Internet
- Next, with the help of the schematic diagram, disconnect each device on the circuit—one at a time—and check the meter. When the milliamp reading drops precipitously, you’ve found the problem. It could be anything, but in my experience, the following are the most common: - Source: Internet
- Once you have determined that the current drain you’re reading is safe, gradually reduce the meter’s scale to the appropriate low range, probably 2 amps or 200 mA. You are now reading the parasitic drain on the battery. Some vehicles will show as little as 10 mA residual drain. Others, probably high-end cars with lots of high-end gadgets, will draw more. - Source: Internet
- Connect the black wire to the com input on the multimeter and the red wire to the 10A or 20A input on the multimeter. The meter needs to be able to read at least a 2 or 3 amps for this test to work. Connecting the red wire to the mA input on the multimeter won’t work and could damage the meter. - Source: Internet
- Unplug any power-draining cables from the lighter socket, such as a cellphone charger or GPS. Even if the device itself is unplugged from the charger, the plug may still consume a few milliamps of current. Got an ear-bleedin’ stereo amp in the trunk? Pull the fuse, because it may be in standby mode rather than completely shut down. - Source: Internet
- Disconnect all add-on components wired directly to the battery or positive main engine block terminals. Look for elimination of the excessive amperage draw, one item at a time. Disconnect the starter motor, check the draw. - Source: Internet
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Video | How To Test For Amp Draw
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